Making A Georgian Costume - Part 1 The Corset B4254 Butterick

Gosh it's been a long time since I last posted.  No wonder I have had to make a robe for my mother, and for myself a major Georgian outfit from scratch. And of course life it's self happens.


Like anything one has to begin with the foundations of the outfit. So I needed to make Georgian
stays. I purchased the B4254 Butterick Making History Corset Patterns chose to make corset B.

Corset A and B are virtually the same, except corset B allows the wearer to put the corset on by themselves, because it is laced at the front as well as the back. This is what I wanted.

I don't know why I made the decision to hand sew the corset.  Maybe I wanted more control, maybe I wanted to know what it was like to hand sew a corset, maybe I wanted to know what the dressmakers of the time went through.  It was a good idea at the time, but half way through my poor hands were complaining.  Overall I am glad I made this decision. Now that I look back, I really appreciate my corset more.

4 Layers were used.

Top layer - Violet Jacquard Suiting

Middle layer - Grey upholstery fabric

3rd Layer - Interfacing

4th Inner Layer - Purple Cotton

I used spiral steel boning. Which is fairly easy to cut with little pliers. 

A sample of my hand sewing. 

The end product!

Overall I was very happy with the corset. The only changes I made to the Butterick pattern was to add more boning in the chest area.

I do realise my binding is better on the left hand side.  The binding on the right, is rather dodgy.

I find it very comfortable to wear the stays and I can drive in them really well. Bonus!  Overall the instructions were great and well illustrated.  I hope to make the other 3 corsets at a later day.  I recommend this pattern to a sewer who has some experience in making a corset.

Pattern Review - Butterick B6108 Edwardian Suit

I bought this Butterick B6108 Pattern many moons ago.  I had no event planned to wear a suit to. Luckily a dear friend decided to plan a day of enjoying the art of punting on the lake at the Royal Botanical Gardens in Melbourne.  I thoroughly recommend Punt Tours.

Most of my friends decided to attend in early Edwardian attire, but I decided this was the perfect opportunity to make my first suit.

In the beginning I was going to make the pattern on the left. However I changed my mind after I made the skirt.  I decided to then make the one on the right, and I am glad I did.

The fabric of choice was wool.  It is Autumn here in Melbourne, Australia, so wool was perfect.  I knew the best place to purchase quality wool, was from Crossley Job Lots .  Many of their fabrics are dating back 30 to 40 years.  So the fabrics automatically have that period feel.



The skirt was pretty straight forward, however it was my first time making pleats with wool.  Gee this fabric creased nicely under the iron. :-)

Now with the coat.  I was a little nervous, it was going to be a challenge, it was my first coat!  I decided to make some changes with the pattern. I decided to eliminate the large collar flap but keep the smaller collar.  My reason for doing this, I am a short person of plump build and the larger collar, I felt would overpower the look.  So I removed it and moved the buttons to the top of the triangle flap.  I felt the buttons would hold the flap better and gravity and the weight of the wool would do the rest of holding the suit in place.

I also decided to make the cuffs smaller as well. When I placed the full size cuffs on the sleeve, I just had to laugh, they made my arms look very short. Thus I had to reduce the size of them as well, they worked, but I could have reduced them a little more.

Overall the Butterick B6108 pattern was a joy to make. Excellent instructions and illustrations.  I used a combination of the sewing machine and hand sewed when it came to inside lining.

Butterick B6108 Retro Pattern
Fabric: Wool (Navy Blue),
Curtain Fabric (Collar & Cuffs)
Lining.Hat: Op ShopBlouse: Op ShopBag: Antique & Op Shop

Pattern Review - Edwardian / Titanic Dress Butterick B6190

I have an up-and-coming dinner at the Titanic Theme Restaurant.  So of course one needs a new frock!

So off I went and purchased the Butterick B6190 History pattern.  I just wanted a plain dress that I could make pretty quickly.  I soon discovered, it wasn't the pattern that was going to take time, it was the type of fabric that I used that delayed me.

So because it was evening wear, I purchased a lilac colour satin, pale creamy pink for the lining and burgundy organza for the over skirt.

The Butterick Pattern has marvellous instructions, well illustrated and plenty of text description, I couldn't fault it.  I chose to make dress B, which is the middle dress on the pattern cover.  The pattern reminds me very much of a Regency dress, except the waist is further down.

When it came down to the attaching the over skirt, that was a little tricky for my poor sewing machine and myself.  Sewing through slippery fabrics is not my cup of tea. So the trick is to take one's time.

Because I took my time with this dress, I didn't get to do as much beading as I wanted to.  If I make another Edwardian dress, I will definitely go to town with the beading.

Expect to do hand sewing as well as machine sewing. Using delicate fabrics and lace requires hand sewing. Overall I would certainly use this pattern again, it met my expectations.

Truly Victorian TV400 1871 Day Bodice Pattern Review

I have an afternoon High Tea coming up with some friends.  The dress code is Victorian or Edwardian.

I decided on Victorian and to loosely based my outfit that the character Katherine Glendenning (Elaine Cassidy) wore in the TV series, 'The Paradise'.

I already had a green skirt completed, so onto the bodice. I had never made a bodice before, so I went with a pattern company I knew would suit my standard of sewing. So I decided on Truly Victorian TV 400 1871 Day Bodice Pattern, with the low neck line.









I found this pattern matched my sewing abilities. When it came to 'Sizing Your Pattern' I was a little hesitant, because measurements are not my strong point. But I must say the explanation on how to adjust the front and back was explained really well, with an example for the sewer to understand. So full marks to 'Truly Victorian'.

Then came the actual sewing of the bodice.  I used purple cotton sateen and Japanese silk for the lining. I also used plastic boning that was already encased in fabric so this step was completed quickly.

Also included in the instructions is a list of different types of ways you can decorate your bodice.  For example, ruffles, braids, stripes and so on.  You choose your decoration and there is a short description of what it is and how you can achieve the look.

Overall this pattern was understandable, great explanation on how to adjust the sizing. I only wish there had been more illustrations. I would recommend this pattern for any first time bodice makers out there.

Sense and Sensibility The Elegant Lady's Regency Pattern Review

I had a Jane Austen Ball coming up, so of course I needed a new frock!  I decided to make a crossover gown, using a Sense and Sensibility Pattern.  This pattern covers sizes 6-26DD.

S&S patterns are very user friendly.  I remember using their basic Regency Day dress pattern when I made my very first Regency dress. So returning to make the crossover gown was like returning to my sewing roots.

S&S provide clear instructions, each step is accompanied with basic black and white illustrations. Completing the crossover section of the gown worked well, however I did have to reduce each pattern piece so it would fit around my neck comfortably. I decided not to do the wrap around part of the gown, because I knew I would be dancing at the Jane Austen Ball and I didn't want the dress to fly open, that would have been most undignified.

Overall I was very happy with this pattern.  It suits sewers who are beginners all the way up to advance sewers.  One can order the pattern from here  at a cost of $17.95 US Paper Pattern or $9.95 US ePattern.

Maid Butterick B6229 Pattern Review

For the last 3 years, I have been doing volunteer conservation / preservation cleaning at Rippon Lea, a historical property here in Australia.  I have learn't to keep a property clean, that it's a strenuous job and also repetitive. However I find it personally very satisfying.  So during this time, I have come to learn and appreciate what the original maids / servants would have had to go through.

Being a maid is a thankless job. One would get up early, stoke the fire, and depending on your rank you would have certain chores assigned to you.  And always making sure you are in the background, not to be seen, just serve.

 By  James Gillray, 1810

 Edwardian Maid

 

 Maids had to clean hazardous ball gowns tinted with arsenic. 

Maid from the popular TV series, Downton Abbey

So it was decided recently I and the other volunteer thought we would dress up as maids while cleaned.  To make a Victorian style apron, I chose the Butterick B6229 Pattern. So here's little review.

Butterick B6229 Making History Pattern

Made in USA, 2015

Patterns enclosed: Apron and Dress

Experience needed: Basic sewing knowledge. 

Fabric: Lightweight or heavy cotton. 

Overall I found this pattern easy to understand and instructions are quite informative. There are plenty of illustrations to follow. A glossary is included as well. The only time I had a little hesitation was when I came to Steps 15 to 18. This was to connect the waist band to the bib. I overcame these steps and was pleased with the result. 

I machined and hand sewed this pattern.  I felt there was too much fabric for my sewing machine to cope with, when sewing the waistband, so I hand sewed this section.  I did alter the back of the apron to fit my needs. I connected the two shoulder ties to the waistband, by cutting the tie and using buttons to connect to the waistband. Overall I felt this Butterick Pattern really gave the historical look. Wearing the apron gives one that Downton Abbey feel. I would recommend this pattern. 

Pattern Review - Kannik's Korner / Man's Shirt 1790 - 1830

I loved seeing the beautiful picnics in the movie 'Emma' (1996) and 'Sense & Sensibility' (1995). After much thought I decided many months ago I wanted to hold a Regency picnic and then the picnic to be held annually.

So before a picnic is to be held, one needs garments!  Dr. G, my husband needs a full Regency ensemble.  So to start at the beginning and the easiest of the patterns - the regency shirt. I'm not an experienced costumer, so this Kannik's Korner Regency Shirt was perfect to begin with.

The Pattern

Kannik's Korner  Pattern KK-4102 ©1996

Man's Shirt 1790 - 1830

First Quarter of the 19th Century - English Style

The 16 page instruction booklet explains in utmost detail what materials one needs, diagrams explaining how to layout the pattern on the fabric, also a complete step by step instructions on how to construct the shirt.  

I was really pleased how the instructions and illustrations were clear and understandable.  At the back of the booklet there are instructions on plain sewing techniques, for example a running stitch, back-stitch and over-handing.  I constructed this Regency Shirt by hand-sewing, and I must say it was a real joy and I have a more respect and understanding of historical garments 

Overall I was very pleased how this pattern turned our.  My husband said it is very comfortable to wear.  I rate this pattern 9/10.