2018 Costume Overview July to December Part 2

Continuing on with my costume overview for 2018 from Part 1.

July

Our first costume event for the second half of the year, was a tour of The Block Arcade in Melbourne, off Collins Street.  It was a delightful tour, learning about the history and architecture of the arcade.  Of course, our group was certainly the centre of the public's attention.

I used Simplicity 2581 Pattern to make my jacket.  Quite a good pattern, I was able to sew the jacket within a week.  To match my skirt I made for Picnic at Hanging Rock event.

One thing I find amusing about the day, when you look at the group photo, one would think we all organised to be in similar colour palettes. Which is not the case, we didn't organise it.

October

So in October I was transported to the 1970's.  Rippon Lea Estate held it's annual costume exhibition, Super 1970's. In conjunction with the costume exhibition, events are held.  So a 1970's Disco it is. 

I found this fantastic fabric from Flashback Wallpaper & Fabrics, unfortunately they are not around anymore.  I was a little nervous working with this fabric, because I hadn't worked with fabric that had so much texture, almost like an embossed look to it. In the long run, I need not have worried, it worked well with my sewing machine. I decided to make a wrap around dress, so I could wear it again in the future. 

November

So our next event was organised by my friend Rozalia, an early Victorian Picnic, held at Werribee Mansion.  I had this major plan to cosplay as Queen Victoria from the TV Series. I was defeated, so my costume ended up changing.  I made my first bonnet out of buckram.  I was very proud of it, and I enjoyed making it.  Overall the outfit was satisfactory, but it's not my favourite.

Last costume event for the year was a tour of the Yan Yean Water Supply System to Melbourne.  Yes you read correctly, a tour of the water supply system for Melbourne.  Unusual, yes, but really interesting. The tour covered the history of Yan Yean Reservoir, Yan Yean Caretaker's Cottage, remains of Wallaby Creek Weir, Staff Quarters and Bear's Castle.

I must say it was a challenge, because I was in a corset all day, and we had to get in and out of the bus all day, and even walk 2 kms.  Overall a really interesting and wonderful day. 

Oh my outfit, I wore one of my old Edwardian Skirts, made a grey shirt and belt. Wore my little cape from previous costume event.  All worked quite well.

At Bear's Castle, Yan Yean Reservoir, Victoria. 

2018 Costume Overview January to June Part 1

I have certainly neglected my costume blog this year,  I seem to be spending my time either making costumes, reading, or just living life.  So I will do an overview, but it will have to be separated.

February

February started with an event held up at Parks Victoria - Hanging Rock.  The theme was 'Picnic at Hanging Rock'. For those who may not be aware, a famous Australia novel takes place at Hanging Rock about a group of school girls who go missing,  Picnic at Hanging Rock by Joan Lindsay

The book is set at the turn of the Century, 1900 on Valentines Day.  So dress code was late Victorian or Edwardian.  I chose to go Edwardian.

Even though this costume looks simple, there was to much hand sewing for my liking.  The lace on the shirt, which of course needed to be tighter and the black ribbon trimming on the skirt, is all hand sewn on.  It was worth it in the end, but my poor wrist complained in the end. 

The next costume I semi completed, was for a friends 40th birthday. So what I mean 'semi completed', for the last 12 months I have been making a costume based on a colour fashion plate. I had completed the lower part of the costume, but not the bodice.  I was having difficulty with the bodice.  So I made the crazy decision to make another bodice. 

April

The 4th Annual Melbourne Regency Picnic came around so quickly.  I decided to wear one of my old Regency Dresses.  When I first wore it back at the 1st picnic, I had no stays at that point.  This time I had stays, and it certainly improved the look of the outfit.  The fabric was made in Korea and I purchased it from Luccello in Melbourne, Australia.  Also to complete the outfit, I purchased reproduction 1700's spectacles from Townsends in the USA.   It was a successful picnic, looking forward to our 5th Annual Picnic in April 2019. 

June

I'm a volunteer for The National Trust of Australia.   One of my volunteer jobs was to help in the sewing department.  I contributed with others to sew large curtains, pillow covers, reproductions of a Victorian Cape and Bodice.  I also got to make a reproduction of a boys 1895 dress.  I was very fortunate to be able to analysis the original Victorian boys dress.  Measurements were taken to draft a pattern, and I used muslin.  The embroidery on the original dress, was the only element that wasn't reproduced. Now that the dress is completed, it is permanently up on display in the children's room at Rippon Lea.

The dress now on display. 

Pattern Review - Butterick B6108 Edwardian Suit

I bought this Butterick B6108 Pattern many moons ago.  I had no event planned to wear a suit to. Luckily a dear friend decided to plan a day of enjoying the art of punting on the lake at the Royal Botanical Gardens in Melbourne.  I thoroughly recommend Punt Tours.

Most of my friends decided to attend in early Edwardian attire, but I decided this was the perfect opportunity to make my first suit.

In the beginning I was going to make the pattern on the left. However I changed my mind after I made the skirt.  I decided to then make the one on the right, and I am glad I did.

The fabric of choice was wool.  It is Autumn here in Melbourne, Australia, so wool was perfect.  I knew the best place to purchase quality wool, was from Crossley Job Lots .  Many of their fabrics are dating back 30 to 40 years.  So the fabrics automatically have that period feel.



The skirt was pretty straight forward, however it was my first time making pleats with wool.  Gee this fabric creased nicely under the iron. :-)

Now with the coat.  I was a little nervous, it was going to be a challenge, it was my first coat!  I decided to make some changes with the pattern. I decided to eliminate the large collar flap but keep the smaller collar.  My reason for doing this, I am a short person of plump build and the larger collar, I felt would overpower the look.  So I removed it and moved the buttons to the top of the triangle flap.  I felt the buttons would hold the flap better and gravity and the weight of the wool would do the rest of holding the suit in place.

I also decided to make the cuffs smaller as well. When I placed the full size cuffs on the sleeve, I just had to laugh, they made my arms look very short. Thus I had to reduce the size of them as well, they worked, but I could have reduced them a little more.

Overall the Butterick B6108 pattern was a joy to make. Excellent instructions and illustrations.  I used a combination of the sewing machine and hand sewed when it came to inside lining.

Butterick B6108 Retro Pattern
Fabric: Wool (Navy Blue),
Curtain Fabric (Collar & Cuffs)
Lining.Hat: Op ShopBlouse: Op ShopBag: Antique & Op Shop

Designing Edwardian Bathers

It's January 2017 and I have finished my first costume!!  I have surprised myself!

Coming up in February a group of friends and I are donning our late Victorian / Early Edwardian bathers. So of course it was time to make another costume.

I scoured Pinterest for many beautiful examples.  A plain and simple 1909 Edwardian bathers took my liking.  But I knew I was in a pickle, I had no pattern.

I still fancy myself as a newbie to the historical costume scene and sewing as well.  I need a pattern, I yet to have the skill to make my own pattern.

So I decided to alter a modern pattern. I decided to use the Newlook No. 6784 Size A6 - 16 Pattern. I altered the pattern for the tunic (Dress A - Bottom Right Hand).  I traced the pattern and cut it diagonally.  With lots of altering etc, I ended up with a pattern I was happy with. 

The fabric I used was a black and white weave cotton.  It had a real vintage feel, which suited the style.  I then used plan black broadcloth cotton for the trim. Black and white gingham ribbon for the trim and lastly white / cream buttons. 

Hopefully in late February I will have some lovely pics of the costume at the beach. 

Pattern Review - Edwardian / Titanic Dress Butterick B6190

I have an up-and-coming dinner at the Titanic Theme Restaurant.  So of course one needs a new frock!

So off I went and purchased the Butterick B6190 History pattern.  I just wanted a plain dress that I could make pretty quickly.  I soon discovered, it wasn't the pattern that was going to take time, it was the type of fabric that I used that delayed me.

So because it was evening wear, I purchased a lilac colour satin, pale creamy pink for the lining and burgundy organza for the over skirt.

The Butterick Pattern has marvellous instructions, well illustrated and plenty of text description, I couldn't fault it.  I chose to make dress B, which is the middle dress on the pattern cover.  The pattern reminds me very much of a Regency dress, except the waist is further down.

When it came down to the attaching the over skirt, that was a little tricky for my poor sewing machine and myself.  Sewing through slippery fabrics is not my cup of tea. So the trick is to take one's time.

Because I took my time with this dress, I didn't get to do as much beading as I wanted to.  If I make another Edwardian dress, I will definitely go to town with the beading.

Expect to do hand sewing as well as machine sewing. Using delicate fabrics and lace requires hand sewing. Overall I would certainly use this pattern again, it met my expectations.

Maid Butterick B6229 Pattern Review

For the last 3 years, I have been doing volunteer conservation / preservation cleaning at Rippon Lea, a historical property here in Australia.  I have learn't to keep a property clean, that it's a strenuous job and also repetitive. However I find it personally very satisfying.  So during this time, I have come to learn and appreciate what the original maids / servants would have had to go through.

Being a maid is a thankless job. One would get up early, stoke the fire, and depending on your rank you would have certain chores assigned to you.  And always making sure you are in the background, not to be seen, just serve.

 By  James Gillray, 1810

 Edwardian Maid

 

 Maids had to clean hazardous ball gowns tinted with arsenic. 

Maid from the popular TV series, Downton Abbey

So it was decided recently I and the other volunteer thought we would dress up as maids while cleaned.  To make a Victorian style apron, I chose the Butterick B6229 Pattern. So here's little review.

Butterick B6229 Making History Pattern

Made in USA, 2015

Patterns enclosed: Apron and Dress

Experience needed: Basic sewing knowledge. 

Fabric: Lightweight or heavy cotton. 

Overall I found this pattern easy to understand and instructions are quite informative. There are plenty of illustrations to follow. A glossary is included as well. The only time I had a little hesitation was when I came to Steps 15 to 18. This was to connect the waist band to the bib. I overcame these steps and was pleased with the result. 

I machined and hand sewed this pattern.  I felt there was too much fabric for my sewing machine to cope with, when sewing the waistband, so I hand sewed this section.  I did alter the back of the apron to fit my needs. I connected the two shoulder ties to the waistband, by cutting the tie and using buttons to connect to the waistband. Overall I felt this Butterick Pattern really gave the historical look. Wearing the apron gives one that Downton Abbey feel. I would recommend this pattern. 

A Year In The Life of Downton Abbey - Book Review

A Year In The Life of Downton Abbey

Jessica Fellowes

2014 Headline Publishing Group

Hardback ISBN 978 1 4722 2053 0

We have another glorious published book on the wonderful British drama, Downton Abbey.  Written by Jessica Fellows, the niece of Lord Julian Fellowes, creator of Downton Abbey. 

This latest book covers the current 5th Season, which takes the viewer to the year 1924.  This publication is divided into months. Each month covers various subjects such as food, locations, props, Ealing Studios, hair and makeup and of course costumes.  I will focus on the costume section for this review. 

Spotlight on Costume is discussed in the chapter June: The London Season.  Costume designer Anna Mary Scott Robbins discusses her history with the show and the process of putting a collection together.  What input she puts in and even the actors have a little input as well.  We read why certain characters wear a particular outfit, where some items are obtained from. Also she discusses that many of the garments are made from scratch by the team of 10 she has. There is even historical mentions on garments.

Through out the book there are many beautiful colour photos of the garments featured in Season 5 of Downton Abbey. For those who like 1920's garments in Britain this book will be a must for their collection.