Year in Review: Costuming in 2016

I still consider myself very new to the historical costuming scene.  2016 was the year that I leapt forward in my skills and knowledge.  I'm now understanding patterns but I still have to learn about detail and choices of fabric, to make the garment look a little more authentic. 

Regency Day Dress

First costume for 2016 was a new Regency day time dress for
The Melbourne Regency Picnic held in March this year.  
I used my trusty old Sense & Sensibility Pattern, which never lets me down

The fabric for this day dress was cotton shirt fabric, it had a small tartan pattern which unfortunately doesn't really show up in photos.  It was great fabric, but it tended to fly up a lot, if there was a gust of wind. 

As you can see I tried to have a little detail in the sleeves, not sure if it looked quite right. 

Edwardian Apron

I really enjoyed making this pattern.  Inserting the ruffles was a little tricky at first, but I finally got my head around it.  Also another first, was sewing pin tucks. Time consuming, but looks great when they are finished. 

I used the Butterick B6229 Making History Pattern, which I purchased from my local sewing store. 

Oh I ended up making another Edwardian Apron for a friend. She had purchased this beautiful cotton, which looked and felt vintage.  That was a treat to see her wearing that one. 

Regency Evening Dress

Another Sense and Sensibility Pattern, but this time for a cross over dress.  This dress was loosely based on this plate I spotted. I feel it was really the colour that influenced me more than anything. As you can see I learn't how to make some ribbon trim for the base, which was fun.  I also started to make more of an effort for my hair, with a proper hair style and a feather.  

Victorian Bustle Day Dress

This outfit was a big challenge for me, because there were so many components to this outfit.  Yes I had already completed the skirt the year before, but I knew I had to make a Victorian bodice.  It was so time consuming, but it turned out really well.  

 

I didn't mean to, but a few people said, your wearing the Suffragette's colours, which I found amusing. 

Now that I have made my first Victorian bodice I feel more comfortable in tackling another Victorian bustle some time. 

 

Edwardian Evening Dress

Lastly for 2016, was an Edwardian evening dress, 

which was to be worn at the Titanic Theme Restaurant in Williamstown.  

I used Butterick B6190 History pattern. 

I didn't enjoy making this dress, I had never sewn with satin before. Urg, never again if I can help it. 

So 2017, what will you bring me now?

- Finish Edwardian Corset

- Edwardian Bathers

- Regency Day Dress

- Military Uniform

- Ball Gown for June Ball

- Victorian Bustle?

- Dr Who costume?

It will be interesting to see what is completed. 

Pattern Review - Edwardian / Titanic Dress Butterick B6190

I have an up-and-coming dinner at the Titanic Theme Restaurant.  So of course one needs a new frock!

So off I went and purchased the Butterick B6190 History pattern.  I just wanted a plain dress that I could make pretty quickly.  I soon discovered, it wasn't the pattern that was going to take time, it was the type of fabric that I used that delayed me.

So because it was evening wear, I purchased a lilac colour satin, pale creamy pink for the lining and burgundy organza for the over skirt.

The Butterick Pattern has marvellous instructions, well illustrated and plenty of text description, I couldn't fault it.  I chose to make dress B, which is the middle dress on the pattern cover.  The pattern reminds me very much of a Regency dress, except the waist is further down.

When it came down to the attaching the over skirt, that was a little tricky for my poor sewing machine and myself.  Sewing through slippery fabrics is not my cup of tea. So the trick is to take one's time.

Because I took my time with this dress, I didn't get to do as much beading as I wanted to.  If I make another Edwardian dress, I will definitely go to town with the beading.

Expect to do hand sewing as well as machine sewing. Using delicate fabrics and lace requires hand sewing. Overall I would certainly use this pattern again, it met my expectations.

Book Review - Fashion Victims The Dangers of Dress Past and Present

         

   

      When I first spotted 'Fashion Victims : The Dangers of Dress Past and Present', the cover illustration just grabbed me. With it's whimsical macabre dancing woman to the raised red eyes.  I knew I just had to have it.

Fashion Victims, written by Alison Matthews David is about the history of women, men and children's clothing.  How fashion harmed the maker and the wearer.  Covering the time periods 1700's to the 1930's. However there are mentions of recent events, where fashion has harmed the maker or wearer.

The book is divided into categories, each chapter covering a different aspect of fashion that caused disease, accidents and even death.  Each chapter is illustrated with beautiful photos, cartoons and illustrations.  Davids presents interesting facts with anecdotes and illustrations.


Davids doesn't hold back on the explaining how the
workers were treated badly, especially the

women and children. To illustrate how badly workers were treated here is a chromolithograph of damaged hands, the effects of working with arsenic to make artificial flowers.

Reading the chapter 'Poisonous Pigments : Arsenical Greens' was fascinating, however I did have to laugh at myself.  I was wearing green at the time, when reading the chapter, one became a little paranoid.

Fashion Victims is a valuable resource. Each chapter has excellent detailed, EndNotes. The reader has the opportunity to explore more, if they wish.

Fashion Victims is such an amazing book, it really took me on a journey of the past. I could tell Alison Matthews Davids has such a passion for this subject. Her passion was contagious and was a real joy to read, I would thoroughly recommend this beautifully illustrated and informative book, for anyone who loves fashion and history.



Fashion Victims 
: The Dangers of Dress Past and Present
Alison Matthews David
Bloomsbury, 2015
ISBN: 978-1-8452-0449-5

High Tea at Mamor Chocolates & High Tea Szalon

The rep for the Australian Costumers Guild organised a High Tea, Victorian and Edwardian attire was to be worn. 

Mamor Chocolates & High Tea Szalon is a perfect venue, with it's richly painted walls, luxuriant furniture covered in richly fabrics.  The 3 course menu for the High Tea was very yummy. There was savoury, sweet and then a dessert.  One didn't leave unsatisfied.  

I wore a Victorian purple and green outfit.  I was quite pleased how it turned out, seeing it was the first one I had created.  I must admit I think I have the bustle bug.  Looking forward to creating the next one!

Everyone's costumes were divine, with a huge variety of colours, textures and fabric.  The costumes are beautiful to wear, but are not practical for cars!  

Truly Victorian TV400 1871 Day Bodice Pattern Review

I have an afternoon High Tea coming up with some friends.  The dress code is Victorian or Edwardian.

I decided on Victorian and to loosely based my outfit that the character Katherine Glendenning (Elaine Cassidy) wore in the TV series, 'The Paradise'.

I already had a green skirt completed, so onto the bodice. I had never made a bodice before, so I went with a pattern company I knew would suit my standard of sewing. So I decided on Truly Victorian TV 400 1871 Day Bodice Pattern, with the low neck line.









I found this pattern matched my sewing abilities. When it came to 'Sizing Your Pattern' I was a little hesitant, because measurements are not my strong point. But I must say the explanation on how to adjust the front and back was explained really well, with an example for the sewer to understand. So full marks to 'Truly Victorian'.

Then came the actual sewing of the bodice.  I used purple cotton sateen and Japanese silk for the lining. I also used plastic boning that was already encased in fabric so this step was completed quickly.

Also included in the instructions is a list of different types of ways you can decorate your bodice.  For example, ruffles, braids, stripes and so on.  You choose your decoration and there is a short description of what it is and how you can achieve the look.

Overall this pattern was understandable, great explanation on how to adjust the sizing. I only wish there had been more illustrations. I would recommend this pattern for any first time bodice makers out there.

Sense and Sensibility The Elegant Lady's Regency Pattern Review

I had a Jane Austen Ball coming up, so of course I needed a new frock!  I decided to make a crossover gown, using a Sense and Sensibility Pattern.  This pattern covers sizes 6-26DD.

S&S patterns are very user friendly.  I remember using their basic Regency Day dress pattern when I made my very first Regency dress. So returning to make the crossover gown was like returning to my sewing roots.

S&S provide clear instructions, each step is accompanied with basic black and white illustrations. Completing the crossover section of the gown worked well, however I did have to reduce each pattern piece so it would fit around my neck comfortably. I decided not to do the wrap around part of the gown, because I knew I would be dancing at the Jane Austen Ball and I didn't want the dress to fly open, that would have been most undignified.

Overall I was very happy with this pattern.  It suits sewers who are beginners all the way up to advance sewers.  One can order the pattern from here  at a cost of $17.95 US Paper Pattern or $9.95 US ePattern.

Maid Butterick B6229 Pattern Review

For the last 3 years, I have been doing volunteer conservation / preservation cleaning at Rippon Lea, a historical property here in Australia.  I have learn't to keep a property clean, that it's a strenuous job and also repetitive. However I find it personally very satisfying.  So during this time, I have come to learn and appreciate what the original maids / servants would have had to go through.

Being a maid is a thankless job. One would get up early, stoke the fire, and depending on your rank you would have certain chores assigned to you.  And always making sure you are in the background, not to be seen, just serve.

 By  James Gillray, 1810

 Edwardian Maid

 

 Maids had to clean hazardous ball gowns tinted with arsenic. 

Maid from the popular TV series, Downton Abbey

So it was decided recently I and the other volunteer thought we would dress up as maids while cleaned.  To make a Victorian style apron, I chose the Butterick B6229 Pattern. So here's little review.

Butterick B6229 Making History Pattern

Made in USA, 2015

Patterns enclosed: Apron and Dress

Experience needed: Basic sewing knowledge. 

Fabric: Lightweight or heavy cotton. 

Overall I found this pattern easy to understand and instructions are quite informative. There are plenty of illustrations to follow. A glossary is included as well. The only time I had a little hesitation was when I came to Steps 15 to 18. This was to connect the waist band to the bib. I overcame these steps and was pleased with the result. 

I machined and hand sewed this pattern.  I felt there was too much fabric for my sewing machine to cope with, when sewing the waistband, so I hand sewed this section.  I did alter the back of the apron to fit my needs. I connected the two shoulder ties to the waistband, by cutting the tie and using buttons to connect to the waistband. Overall I felt this Butterick Pattern really gave the historical look. Wearing the apron gives one that Downton Abbey feel. I would recommend this pattern. 

Doh. Didn't quite go to plan

Well it's been just under a year since my last post on this blog.  I had many plans and was all eager and inspired.  Not sure what quite happened.

Shall we start again?  We shall.